Nidaros or bust!

Well, I hinted in my previous post that I had special plans for my time in Norway. In recent years, this country has held an increasing mystique for me. I think it goes beyond the fact that it's the source of the most "Old World" cultural heritage for me and my family. It also has to do with my appreciation for the Norwegian character (the way I perceive it, at least). I appreciate Norwegians' connection to nature and the outdoors. I appreciate their sense of social responsibility. I appreciate their quiet, understated confidence. Maybe these are all just outdated images of a culture that has changed with time, but at the very least, I want to find out for myself whether that's true.

I guess I was looking for something special to do while I was here in Norway, something that would bring me close to the Norwegian people and close to nature. It didn't take long for me to figure out what that was:

I'm going to walk from Oslo to Trondheim.

I only found out that this was even possible about two weeks ago. While doing an internet search for information about hiking in Norway, I came across this site. It's the Pilegrimsfellesskapet St. Jakob, Norway's pilgrimmage association. This is the organization that is, in part, responsible for reviving the ancient pilgrimmage route known as Olav's Way.

Let me drop a little history on you, if I may (compiled from various sources):

In 1015, Olav Haraldsson, a prominent Viking chieftan, sailed for Norway from England with the intent to conquer his homeland which, at the time, was divided into several small kingships. Aided only by several English bishops and clerics and the support of yeoman farmers, he soon succeeded, and ruled as the king of Norway for twelve years. His most famous acheivement, however, was to make Norway Christian (or, rather, complete the Christianization of Norway), a result of his conversion while he was in England.

Later in his rule, Olav's decision to conspire against Denmark's King Knut brought about a Danish invasion of Norway, and he was forced to flee the country. Two years later he returned to Norway at the head of a small army, but he was killed at the Battle of Stiklestad on July 29th, 1030. His body was smuggled away and buried on the spot where Trondheim (known then as Nidaros) cathedral now stands.

Almost immediately following his death, numerous reports of miracles began to surface. As a result, Olav was canonized as St. Olav on August 3rd, 1031. As miracles continued to be reported, an increasing number of Northern Europeans made pilgrimmages to the shrines of St. Olav in Nidaros. These pilgrimmages continued for over 500 years until 1537 when the Reformation put them to a halt and ended the official veneration of St. Olav. In recent years, however, there has been renewed interest in Olav's Way, the ancient pilgrimmage route from Oslo to Trondheim, and partial restoration of the trail was completed in 1997.

SO...I've decided to do the walk myself, following in the footsteps of the pilgrims who made the trek over 500 years ago. As you might imagine, it's a long way from Oslo to Trondheim: 643 kilometers, to be exact. The terrain is often hilly or mountainous, and the path is often poorly marked. These factors combined dictate that the average person usually completes the journey after 25 to 30 days of walking. Accomodation along the way is sketchy, often nothing more than a farmhouse with a few extra beds in certain places (which is why I'm packing a tent).

The logical question to ask at this point is, why am I choosing to do this? Well, I'm not exactly sure, to be quite honest. The factors that led up to my decision are intangible, for the most part. I guess you could say that it just felt right. The more I thought about it, the more I felt that I was somehow meant to do this walk. On top of that, there have been wierd little coincidences that, while probably circumstantial, make me say "hmmm" at the very least:

• July 28, the day on which celebration of Olav Wake begins in Trondheim, is also my 25th birthday.
• The home of the family friend I've been staying with in Oslo is located on a street called Trondheimsveien, which literally means "The Road to Trondheim."
• Both of my parents are graduates of St. Olaf College in Northfield, MN.

Sure, probably just coincidences, but fun to think of nonetheless. Anyways, I'm going to be starting the walk in the next day or so, probably putting in somewhere around 35 km per day at first. I hope to arrive in Trondheim by July 25, which marks the beginning of a small festival especially for pilgrims. I'm not sure if I'll be able to get there that quickly, though. Who knows what could happen between now and then?

Blog updates between Oslo and Trondheim will probably be scarce, but I'll try to make short posts when I can to let everyone know about my progress. Hamar and Lillehammer are places where this might be possible.

So that's that. I'm excited to start walking, and I can't wait to get out into the Norwegian countryside. Now more than ever, I'll be needing all of you to send me good vibes from wherever you are. Wish me luck!