The Catlins

Since Tuesday I have been slowly taking in the sights, sounds, and smells of the Catlins, the coastal region between Dunedin and Invercargill. It's a very beautiful and interesting place. In the 1960s much of the forests covering the hills were logged and burned to create farmland and pastures for sheep, so the landscape is a mix of rolling pastures and dense bush. I have come to appreciate both forms.

On Tuesday I visited mostly beaches and coastal cliffs. The most notable stop was Nugget Point which features a short walk to a still-operational lighthouse from the 1870s and views of a geological oddity called (what else) the Nuggets. The Nuggets are basically a group of rock formations jutting out of the sea just off the coast. Of course, Nugget Point gets its name from the Nuggets which, indeed, look kinda like nuggets of some sort, but I decided that I would dedicate the area to Nugget McSimpson, the alter-ego of my Wash U comrade TJ Peterson.

Tuesday night I stayed at my favorite hostel yet, The Falls just Southwest of Owaka. It's a really tiny place on a sheep farm owned by caretakers Debbie and Ray, and it actually felt like a house/home instead of a hostel. Debbie actually took the time to make sure that all the guests were introduced to each other, so I met Graeme and Adrian from Christchurch, Ian and Jayne from the UK, Alan from Copenhagen, and Debra from Seattle. It was a very friendly atmosphere and we spent all our time together chatting.

The best part came later that night. Ray asked us if we wanted to see the farm, and Ian, Alan, Debra and I obliged. We climbed up into the back of his pickup truck and stood up, holding on to a frame in back of the cab. (Note: This, of course, would never fly in the USA due to legal liability. Another reason why NZ is a breath of fresh air.) We drove all over the farm as the sun was setting, observing the surrounding hills in the wonderful dusk light. Ray let his working dogs out, and they all ran alongside the truck, occasionally breaking off to tend to an errant sheep. He took us to the highest point on the farm, where we were treated to fantastic 360-degree views. It was dark by this time, and the night sky was gorgeous as well. Along the way, Ray would periodically stop to talk to us about the ins and outs of sheep farming, and I learned an awful lot about the life of a sheep farmer.

When we got back to the hostel, Ian, Jayne and I walked down to the Purakaunui falls to look at the glow worms. They were all over, forming little constellations of pale blue/green light on the slopes surrounding the falls. On the way back, Ian semi-successfully tried to scare the shit out of Jayne and I by making scary voices and noises.

Well, I have racked up a substantial internet fee here in Owaka (the only internet access anywhere near Papatowai), so I should sign off for now. Trust me, the pictures are coming. See you in Invercargill!